A Good Regimen For Relaxed, Texlaxed Or Texturized Black Hair

Woman with long straight hairUse this simple regimen tweaking where necessary to grown your relaxed hair to its full potential

When growing out relaxed, texturized or texlaxed hair, there is one thing that you must remember. Moisture! Without it your hair will break, period. With any relaxed hair regimen this must be taken into account. The following are other points to consider:

• How often to wash your hair

• How often to deep condition

• How often to have protein treatments

• How often to clarify your hair

• How to style it to retain the most length

• How often to trim your hair

• How often to have hot oil treatments

• How often to rotate your shampoos and conditioners

• How often to have retouch the new growth

Outlined below is a moisture rich regimen for relaxed, texturized or texlaxed hair:

1. Co-wash (condition wash) hair on Monday with a moisturizing conditioner, wet wrap with minimal oil or silicone serum to seal and air dry overnight for a straight style.

2. Co wash with a moisturizing conditioner on Wednesday and air dry making sure to seal with oil or silicone serum. Pin curl the hair overnight for a curly do.

3. Never brush the hair when it is wet as this is when relaxed hair is weakest. Use a wide tooth comb to detangle dry or mostly dry hair.

4. Keep hair moisturized daily between washes with a coin sized amount of a good hair moisturizer dabbed through the hair with fingers. Avoid combing excessively.

5. On Saturday, wash hair with a sulfate free shampoo and deep condition with a light protein conditioner. Roller set the hair, sitting under a dryer for a smooth straight style.

6. Rotate the conditioners (both moisturizing and protein) every other week so that the hair does not stop responding to it.

7. A hot oil treatment should be used on the hair every 4th Saturday.

8. For special occasions smooth the hair out with a flat iron for a straight style. Make sure to use heat protectant beforehand.

9. Use only temperature controlled heat tools. As the relaxed hair has already lost some of its natural curl, very little heat will be required to smooth it out.

10. Apply a strong protein treatment to the hair a every 6-8 weeks or when you notice excessive breakage.

11. Make sure to use a strong protein treatment the week before the relaxer service. This is to strengthen the hair in preparation for the chemical.

12. Use the same relaxer with each touch up which should be every 2-3 months. You want to have at least 1- 1.5 inches of hair before relaxing, any sooner and you run the risk of over processing the hair.

13. Do not relax the hair ‘bone straight’; be sure to ask your stylist to leave a bit of curl in the hair. This is to ensure that the hair is left with some of its elasticity after the relaxer process.

14. If you self-relax, always use a neutralizing shampoo to wash the hair after the service. This will ensure that all the relaxer is removed from the hair and that the hair is restored to its normal ph level. The same should be applied if you go to a stylist for a relaxer touch up.

15. Use a caramel treatment a month after the relaxer touch up to hydrate the new growth and help to straighten it without using too much heat.

16. Do not braid the hair for the first 2 weeks after a relaxer service.

17. Keep hair braided for 2-3 weeks at a time especially if the hair is at shoulder length as it helps with length retention. If the hair is past this length then braiding is not necessary unless you want to!

18. When the hair is braided, normal washing and conditioning must continue to keep the hair moisturized until you take down the braids.

19. Do not braid too close to the edges (small baby hairs) to avoid thinning of the hairline

20. Clarify the hair once every 6-8 weeks or when a lot of product has been used during the week to get rid of build up. Do not do this often to prevent the hair from feeling ‘stripped’ and dry.

21. Dust any split ends once every 6 months. Trim the hair only if you want full ends as your strands do not grow at the same rate. Trimming the hair more often will only serve to reduce the length gained and does nothing for the overall health of your hair.

22. Track your growth every 3 months with pictures.

The regimen above can be changed to suit your hair’s needs or lifestyle. See the article on how to cheat at roller setting hair.



15 Ways To Get Longer Healthier Hair


About Alma

Hi! I'm Alma Ruddock, a full time blogger. I stumbled on a hair care forum in 2008 frustrated with my breaking relaxed hair and the information that I found there changed the fate of my hair forever!. I started BlackHairInformation.com as a way to help both myself and other women of color achieve their dreams of long healthy hair. I have now achieved my goal length and I continue to bring new information about hair on both this website and my personal blog.

  • Nisee

    Would you be able to give a list of hair products to use for all stages of the procedure please?

    • meterra

      yea would she?

  • Delores

    I thought all "cones" were bad, so what product has silicone serum?

    • BHI

      The 'evils' of cones are exaggerated. Everyone's hair is different, just the way some people are protein sensitive and others love protein. I use lots of products with cones and they have been nothing but helpful for me so I would say that it depends on your own hair.

  • Caramelbeautydoll003

    so trimming ur hair doesnt help it grow??? im confused

    • http://www.lessfoodmorelife.com/ BHI
    • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_UQQXMZJ3FXS3S3UXTBD2U5LI5Q Shalom

      trimming your hair doesn’t make your hair grow. it shortens it a bit but trimming is very necessary if you don’t want your hair to fall out. trimming your hair gets rid of the split ends that might cause your hair to fall out. 
      So trimming your hair helps a lot. Doesn’t make hair grow but prevents it from falling out which helps hair grow. hope that helps. :)

  • Comberge

    I love this regimen, it closely follows my own with the exception of the caramel treatment. Also I only relax twice a year. Trying to get up the courage to go natural, but for sure to do a light relax once a year! I am getting there SLOWLY!!!!

    • http://www.lessfoodmorelife.com/ BHI

      For me it was more of a band aid scenario. I just went off the creamy crack cold turkey!

      • meterra

        i only put the creamy crack 2 -4 times a year! :)

  • Reuben

    Hello. I am a guy who just ‘texturizes’ my hair with Luster’s Texturizer. My white friend did it for me and my scalp burns.. anyways, lesson learned and I will be going to a Salon. My hair is short. Do I have to wrap my head each night? What will this do for me? Also, is following a regimen so strict necessary?

    • http://www.lessfoodmorelife.com/ BHI

      Hi Reuben. No you don’t have to wrap your hair at night, when it grows longer a ponytail should do. Having said that, if your goal is to get long hair, then yes, some sort of regimen is necessary. It doesn’t have to be as involved as the one listed above but certainly following a regular hair routine is the best approach to healthy hair care
      . I have written about men’s haircare in passing, take a look at this article here: http://www.blackhairinformation.com/my-hair-story-and-reader-questions/reader-question-advice-for-mens-hair/ and I also have something on my husband’s hair care routine on my own blog here: http://www.blackhairinformation.com/blog/hairstyles/anyones-hair-can-grow-even-a-mans/

  • Jasmine

    A piece of my relaxed hair broke off what should I do ? Please help

    • http://www.blackhairinformation.com/ Alma

      What were you doing when it broke off?

  • Mary_akot

    When I was younger my hair used to touch my shoulder blades. It was healthy and strong. Then a friend of my mothers did relaxer on my hair and suggested cutting some. That some ended  up being most of my hair. The last two years of seen some changes because I have been researching for better ways to take care of my hair. I am trying to get back the length I had before. Any suggestions?

    • Five0

      A good regimen, plenty of protein both on the hair and eaten, moisturizing deep conditioning treatments weekly with daily moisturization, low manipulation hairstyles and you will have hair way longer than shoulder length! 

      • http://www.blackhairinformation.com/ Alma

        +1 couldn’t have put it better myself.

  • Shaqueita

    I recently cut and relaxed my hair in a pixi cut about a month ago but I want to start my hair car journey is this all still possible with this length of hair?

    • http://www.blackhairinformation.com/ Alma

      Absolutely! Hair regimens are for any length hair, you only have to adjust the amount of product used.

  • meterra

    hiiiiiii ! welll this is a good regimen :)

  • cynparadiss

    Im going to try this regiman ive been so confused on how to go about this lol

    • http://www.blackhairinformation.com/ Alma

      Just read and absorb, its pretty easy if you figure out what you need to do daily (moisturize), weekly (wash & DC) etc etc. Write things down in your diary so that you can remember to do them like protein treatments or clarifying. Good luck!

  • cynparadiss

    Whats something good to stop itching i recently used a new braid spray an now i have really bad itching in the middle of my scalp i stopped using it

    • http://www.blackhairinformation.com/ Alma

      Personally I get itchy when I apply anything with oil on my scalp so I generally avoid braid sprays with oils. I make my own spray from a mixture of 1 part glycerin 1 part infusium 23 and 3 parts water. It does the job without the itchiness. Alternatively you can use any spray leave in conditioner.

  • Andrenae

    My hair is shoulder length and kinda thin. How do i get it become thicker and longer. I currently use a feather-light anti-breakage grease that isn’t really helping ? I also wash my hair once a week.

    • Shezza

      The best advice is to follow a good regimen and be patient. No product or technique will grow your hair overnight.

    • Jenn

      Something that helped me tremendously was an article I saw in Ebony magazine years ago about co-washing (washing with only conditioner). For thicker, healthier hair: Start with clean hair and wash every 4 days with conditioner ONLY for 32 days. You can use any inexpensive brand such as Suave or V05, just as long as it’s not a deep conditioner, which is more likely to leave build-up on your hair. At the end of the 32 days, shampoo hair as you normally would. I would recommend not using any heat during that time, as that could be the reason for your thinning as well. If you have reached your desired thickness, resume your normal shampooing regimen. Otherwise, you may want to repeat the co-washing process for another month.

      Go light on the hair products so as not to create any major buildup and you probably want to use a clarifying shampoo at the beginning and afterwards to make sure your scalp is free of any products.

      Air drying is best to avoid the damage of the heat from blow drying and keeping your hair up in a bun, french braid or other protective style will keep it from rubbing against your clothes or furniture and ultimately help you to retain length and thickness. HTH!

      • http://www.blackhairinformation.com/ Alma

        Good advice Jenn

  • http://www.facebook.com/pisces013 Jackie Spradley

    I am starting on a new hair care regimen and I have a quick question. When you wet wrap is you hair supposed to come out straight? I did it and when I woke up my hair war dry and not straight. Did I do something wrong?

    • http://www.blackhairinformation.com/ Alma

      Wet wrap results depend mostly on technique. Some people are able to get relatively straight hair using this method but really it depens on the texture of your hair when it is wet. Most of us are still left with a curl even after relaxing we are not all able to do the wet wrap technique. Further I don’t believe that wet wraps are the best way to get straight hair. Have you tried roller setting instead?

      • http://www.facebook.com/pisces013 Jackie Spradley

        I have not tried roller setting, but I will. Thanks

  • http://www.facebook.com/emma7berry Emma Berry

    Is using heat really so bad? My hair is relaxed and I have never really suffered from dry hair. It is very thick and shoulder length but I am now stretching my re-touch to 14 – 16 weeks and following a new hair regimen as I really want more length now.

    I have noticed my hair does not respond well to air drying (I have tried several ways now) it is always SO dry the next day were as like I said before my hair never suffered from serious dryness. I have now gone back to wrapping or roller setting my hair after letting it air dry at least 75% and I have found the results are so much better for me. I use a heat protection serum as well as I also use a hair straighter (on the lowest setting) with Frizz-Ease (couldn’t believe it worked!) I moisturise and seal every day as well as take care of my scalp. My hair feels great and I am not overly dried out. So my question is really am I wrong in what I’m doing (I only use heat once a week)? Also I don’t co-wash as like I said my hair really isn’t dry, is this a must?

    • http://www.blackhairinformation.com/ Alma

      Hi Emma, I would love to say to you to carry on using heat once a week but most of the ladies who have grown their relaxed hair to MBL and beyond don’t use heat regularly (literally once or twice a year). Breakage rather than dryness is the key indicator to your hair’s health and I have come across many a smooth sleek relaxed strand that just doesn’t stand up to an elasticity test. There are also plenty of naturals with hair that feels dry sometimes but when well taken care of, grows very long.

      Dryness can be alleviated by using products that keep moisture in your hair for longer or using a heavier sealant straight after washing. I would suggest that you practice roller setting until you are able to get straight results that you are happy with. Too much direct heat is disastrous for relaxed hair which is already weakened, there’s no tiptoeing around that fact I’m afraid. Just don’t want you to find yourself stuck at APL for years and years :(

  • Ndiaye Aminata

    OGM!!!! I Still can’t believe where your hair comes from?!
    I love your blog the work you did , is just amazing and so helpful .
    Ok I’d like an advise . I did a curly perm last year which came out really nice and curly I really loved it because it grew my hair and then after 3months I needed a touch up so I did it again but this time I don’t know what happened I started to lose a lot of hair. I did a weave to make my hair grow which it did . But now I took them out , I realized my hair which was curled from the curly perm is now straight and thin but my natural hair on the roots grew a bit soft and thick. I went to a salon they advise to relax my roots for me to have all my hair straight this will help my hair To grow specially where my hair is broken ,And treat my hair every 2weeks.
    So my question is : what would you recommend me to make my hair grow back , a relaxer is a solution ? or should I have a weave again to make my hair growslonger ? Or do you have any other idea/advice ?
    Thank you so much for your blog again , I hope you could answer me x.
    Ps: sorry for my unperfect English :( .

    • http://www.blackhairinformation.com/ Alma

      Hi there, it sound a lot like your hair probably got over processed from the first curly perm. A relaxer is absolutely NOT the solution. When you mix the chemical from a curly perm with a relaxer, the result is intense breakage (aka melting hair) so please don’t do it. The curls from a curly perm are not supposed to last forever, they have to be redone when you are doing a touch up so clearly the stylist you went to doesn’t know much about curly perms! Find a different stylist who specializes in curly perms would be the best suggestion at this point and take it from there. Have you considered transitioning to natural It just seems that you are not having the best of luck with curly perm either if you hair continues to break in spite of your efforts . . .

  • http://www.facebook.com/ohughes12 Oneisha L. Hughes

    I have shoulder length relaxed hair and I am trying to grow my hair longer (maybe middle of my back). What is the best hair care regiment for me a college student on a budget?

  • Rhianne Budel

    Sometimes i wonder what my relaxed hair would have looked like if i had cared for it properly before i went natural , although ide hate to have to sit under the hooded dryer for hours lol

  • Ruth

    Hello Alma,
    The described regimen is similar to what I was doing before I started work. I found it difficult to keep up the dc’ng during the week but did so on the weekends. I’m finding that my hair really loves the water and need it. This is my last week of work for a minute and now I can get back into the swing of really caring for my hair. One question I have is what is a caramel treatment?